LVMH And Christian Dior: A Tale Of Two Holding Companies Exploring the Dichotomy of LVMH and Christian Dior

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Woman shopping in front of the window of a Dior fashion boutique with the logo on the wall.

Author’s note: Since both companies discussed in this article only report EUR numbers, all numbers will refer to EUR.

Delving Into LVMH’s Operations

I’ve previously waxed lyrical about Hermès Paris (OTCPK:OTCPK:HESAY)(OTCPK:OTCPK:HESAF), it being the undisputed leader in the luxury goods sector and among the finest companies I’ve had the pleasure to know. In these discussions, I’ve made numerous references to its peers, including LVMH (OTCPK:LVMUY)(OTCPK:LVMHF).

This article will be dedicated to LVMH and its parent holding company Christian Dior SE (OTCPK:CHDRF)(OTCPK:CHDRY). The goals of this article are to:

  • Provide a brief business overview of the conglomerates’ operations.
  • Show the interconnection between Christian Dior SE, LVMH, and the Arnault family, and its implications.
  • Discuss the reasons why LVMH is a high-quality business.
  • Assess and compare the attractiveness of both companies.

The Multifaceted LVMH

This section will focus on LVMH, the “operating” company, while Christian Dior SE is merely the “holding” company. However, it’s important to note that LVMH also operates as a holding company, owning various subsidiaries for its different brands, with Bernard Arnault holding the reins as the controlling shareholder, possessing more than 50% of LVMH’s voting rights. The influence of Bernard Arnault and the Arnault family bears significant weight for LVMH.

LVMH operates across five main reporting segments:

  • Wines & Spirits (Moët & Chandon, Dom Pérignon, Hennessy, Krug).
  • Fashion and Leather (Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Fendi, Celine).
  • Perfumes and Cosmetics (Christian Dior, Guerlain, Givenchy).
  • Watches and Jewelry (Tiffany, Bulgari, Tag Heuer, Hublot).
  • Selective Retailing (Mainly Sephora).

I’ve included some of the most renowned brands to illustrate LVMH’s diversification. LVMH refers to its segments and brands as “Maisons” (French for “Houses”), underscoring exclusivity, a cherished attribute for LVMH and its Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault, especially in the luxury goods sector.

Before delving into the nitty-gritty of the holding structure, I’ll present a few easily digestible slides from the FY23 results presentation. The following slide depicts LVMH’s well-diversified revenue composition, with the main markets being Asia (38% of sales) and the U.S./Europe (25% each):

The Fashion & Leather Goods segment dominates (comprising nearly 50% of annual sales), followed by Selective Retailing (predominantly the retail chain Sephora) and Watches & Jewelry:

I’ll refrain from delving into the sales growth numbers at this point; I’ll shed light on this in a subsequent section of this article.

Lastly, the following chart illustrates the operating profit for the different segments:

The chart unequivocally portrays the sheer profitability of the Fashion & Leather Goods segment, contributing nearly 75% to the operating profits, while Selective Retailing, as expected for pure retail operations, is a low-margin pursuit.

LVMH’s Ethos

It’s essential to delve into a topic that often gets overlooked in financial analysis: a company’s culture. I’ve noticed that many high-quality companies, albeit not all, tend to share their success with all stakeholders. This is a subject that Bernard Arnault frequently underscores during the Year-End earnings calls he attends. Here are a few noteworthy excerpts from his recent FY earnings calls:

So this family that welcomes the main members of the group when one enters LVMH, one enters a family. Considered like a family. We do things. We approved the Board today an employee share ownership plan that was submitted to me, and we’re going to launch that during the course of the year once it’s been tabled at the AGM.

Source: Bernard Arnault – FY23 Earnings Call.

LVMH will approve an employee share ownership plan at the upcoming shareholder meeting. This initiative will tether the employees to LVMH’s success, allowing them to partake in the group’s triumphs. Aligning the employees with himself (as a major shareholder) and the shareholders is commendable and deserving of accolades.

I would like to demonstrate here that this magnificent group that has spectacular results is also a group that has a great economic and social footprint for France. In 2022, we recruited worldwide close to 40,000 young people in France. In France alone, we recruited over 15,000 people, making the group the leading recruiter in France in 2022. LVMH invested over 200 million for the training of its employees. In France, a job created by LVMH generates four in — with our partners or suppliers.

So, we carry some 160,000 people in France who work directly or indirectly for LVMH.

Source: Bernard Arnault – FY22 Earnings Call.

LVMH generates considerable employment opportunities worldwide, particularly in France, where most of the manufacturing activities are concentrated.

The group has worked on its building new workshops and it stores over 5 million — in over 500 stores and 100 craftsmanship manufacturing sites are in France. LVMH opens every year many manufacturing facilities, notably for Louis Vuitton in France and we need, the group — because we generate profits, we pay a lot of tax. We pay €5 billion in

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Exploring the LVMH Financials

Turning our attention to LVMH’s financial performance in recent years, it’s crucial to begin with a scrutiny of the balance sheet. A comprehensive examination of Goodwill, Net Debt, Book Value, and Capital Employed will shed light on the company’s financial standing.

Goodwill and Acquisitions

Delving into LVMH’s Goodwill over the years reveals a marked increase, particularly following significant acquisitions such as the high-profile purchase of Tiffany & Co. Goodwill surged by close to €10 billion from 2020 to 2021, eliciting concerns about the sustainability of serial acquisitions. However, given LVMH’s robust organic growth and track record, the influx of acquisitions appears to be well-managed.

Net Debt and Balance Sheet Health

Perhaps a cause for slight trepidation, the net debt witnessed a substantial increase post the Tiffany deal, peaking close to €10 billion in 2021. Nonetheless, contrasted with LVMH’s formidable earnings power, this figure of net debt equates to a mere half year of EBIT, thereby cementing the company’s robust balance sheet.

Book Value and Capital Employed

Charting the development of Book Value and Capital Employed presents a reassuring picture, as both metrics underscore a steadfast pattern of consistent growth. The 10-year Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) for both parameters nears 12%, promising considerable returns for shareholders in the long run.

Evaluating Earnings Metrics

Shifting focus to the earnings metrics, a thorough analysis of LVMH’s revenue, EBIT, and net income over the past decade propounds a tale of resilient performance. Notwithstanding the hurdles presented by the pandemic year of 2020, revenue exhibited consistent growth, while profit margins surged substantially post-2020, chiefly attributable to the highly profitable Fashion & Leather segment.

Unraveling Free Cash Flow

Diving into Free Cash Flow (FCF), the myriad nuances of EU-based accounting practices come to the fore. The intricacies of lease liability repayment, interpreted within the rubric of IFRS, warrant a careful dissection. The real picture of LVMH’s FCF unveils a steady pre-pandemic growth, a notable spike in 2021, and a subsequent downturn. Balancing these dynamic figures against the vagaries of accounting methods is paramount to gaining a clear perspective on LVMH’s actual cash generation.




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The Slow and Steady Path of LVMH: A Deeper Look into the Luxury Conglomerate’s Growth and Valuation

It’s fascinating how LVMH, the renowned luxury conglomerate, has reached a stage where the pursuit of breakneck growth is no longer the prima ballerina in their grand ballet. During the Q4 2023 Earnings Call, Bernard Arnault, the Chairman and CEO of LVMH, expressed a notable shift in focus. “It’s great what we did with Pietro these past few years with Dior. But we’ve reached a stage such that we no longer need to have such high growth. And between 8% and 10% is perfect,” he mused. This strategic pivot, akin to reining in an overzealous stallion, is a breath of fresh air in a business landscape often dominated by endless expansion.

Redefining Desirability

Arnault’s emphasis on desirability, rather than relentlessly chasing a burgeoning top line, underscores the alluring essence of luxury. Indeed, desirability is the lifeblood of a conglomerate like LVMH, infusing its brands with an aura of exclusivity that beckons the discerning elite. The reverberations of this philosophy are starkly evident when held up against the trials of Kering SA, the parent company of Gucci, which has weathered a palpable struggle in recent years, as evidenced by its drooping stock performance.

The Nuances of Growth Prospects

Luxury retail, a realm where the magnetism of a brand hinges on its scarcity, presents a distinctive paradigm for growth. Unlike conventional retailers, where volumetric expansion reigns supreme, the crux of growth for LVMH and its ilk lies in wielding the power of pricing. The corollary is clear – the rarer and more coveted a brand, the more potent its pricing authority. This sheds light on the divergence in valuation between LVMH and Hermès, with the latter commanding a premium multiple owing to its unparalleled cachet in the realm of opulence. Unveiling this unique tenet is akin to holding a prism to discern the kaleidoscopic hues of the luxury market.

Unwrapping Valuation

A quantitative dissection of LVMH’s valuation illuminates several facets of its investment quotient. With a current P/E ratio of 26.4, it straddles the line between pricey and reasonable, offering a nod to its robust but not exorbitant earnings. Yet, a closer inspection, mirroring the volatility of free cash flow (FCF), uncloaks a less lustrous perspective, painting the current FCF yield at a meager 2%. This sets the stage for a nuanced evaluation, with a normalized cash-conversion rate providing a glimpse into a prospective FCF yield of 3.25% – a figure that still reverberates with opulence in valuation terms.

The delicate art of forecasting returns necessitates an orchestration of FCF growth and yield. Amidst this symphony, the assumption of a 6% annual price escalation, juxtaposed against a conservative 2% volume growth, offers a sonorous revelation – a probable 10% uptick in earnings, a harmonious chord aligning with LVMH’s tempered growth ethos. This echoes the historical cadence of LVMH’s ascent, predating the pandemic-induced spurts, and heralds a pragmatic melody of restrained expansion.

Delving further into the market’s projection, an additional discounted cash flow (DCF) estimation paints a canvas of promising returns, unveiling the allure of low double-digit aspirations, unfurling a tapestry of wealth anchored in grounded growth.



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